Excerpts from Claiborne S. Young's Cruising Guide to COASTAL NORTH CAROLINA: New Bern Many thanks to Claiborne Young for contributing to our website. If you would like more information about his Cruising Guide Series, or wish to order any of his works, click here.

New Bern guards the crucial intersection of the Neuse and Trent Rivers. Ideally situated for waterborne commerce, this city has been important in North Carolina history since its founding in the 1700s. In fact, New Bern served as the colonial capital until the Revolutionary War, then as the first capital of North Carolina until the early 1790's. Today, New Bern is a thriving coastal city that has managed to retain much of its earlier charm. Excellent motels and restaurants are within easy walking distance of the waterfront. Currently, one large marina on the Trent River provides excellent dockage. Keep in mind that you must pass through a swing bridge with 13 feet of closed vertical clearance and a restricted opening schedule to reach this facility. New Bern boasts a dynamic, revitalized downtown business district and many historical buildings, including Tryon Palace, one of the most memorable structures in all of North Carolina. It's easy to see why more and more cruisers are setting their sights on this fortunate community on the banks of the Neuse and Trent Rivers. I highly suggest you join this happy throng. Visitors to New Bern in need of taxi service can call New Taxi Service ( 636-9000). Car rentals are available from Hertz ( 637-3021), Avis ( 637-2130), and Enterprise ( 514-2575). New Bern Marinas In the fall of 1996, New Bern's waterfront suffered extensively from Hurricanes Bertha and Fran. The popular Ramada Marina, flanking the Trent River's southerly banks directly across from the Sheraton Marina, was all but destroyed. During this writer's visit in January 1997, not a single dock remained standing. Many of the basin's pilings survived, however, and are going forward for a full restoration of this facility. A last minute check in late summer of 1997 showed construction well underway. Similarly, the Comfort Inn Marina, which fronted the western banks of the Neuse River near unlighted daybeacon #34, was laid waste by the twin storms. After Bertha, this writer took a photograph, later used in Soundings magazine, of a power cruiser originally berthed at the Comfort Inn whose bow was pointed at the sky. Rumor has it that this marina may not be rebuilt. Only time will tell. Fortunately, New Bern's largest pleasure-craft facility, the Sheraton New Bern Hotel and Marina, suffered only minor damage and is up and running at full capacity. Cruising visitors can still be confident of finding first-class slips at the Sheraton. You will spot the marina's extensive floating, wooden-decked deepwater docks on the Trent's northern banks between the low-level Trent River highway and railroad bridges. Minimum depths alongside are 8 feet, with 12-foot soundings typical. A 700-foot floating dock designed as a breakwater fronts the dockage complex, providing not only additional berth space but good shelter for the remaining slips. All docks have ultramodern power, water, and cable-television connections. Gasoline and diesel fuel can be purchased, and transients are free to make use of the hotel's swimming pool. Free waste pump-out service is offered, sponsored by the local Rotary Club. Clean showers, a laundromat, and a well-outfitted exercise room are available on the first floor of the adjacent convention center. The friendly dockmaster can often arrange for mechanical repairs via independent technicians. Cruisers in need of galley supplies will be glad to learn that the Pak-A-Sak supermarket (215 East Front Street, 633-0200) is located within a three-block walk. Ask the dockmaster or one of his staff for directions or refer to the map below. The Sheraton's docks also allow quick access by foot to the downtown business district and the city's many historic attractions. The marina is overlooked by a large Sheraton Hotel which features a good restaurant and extensive convention facilities. Passing cruisers will quickly note the complex's huge secondary building (which contains suites) gazing serenely over the Trent River just east of the original hotel building. For many years, a set of poorly maintained and rather shallow town docks was located hard by Union Point at the intersection of the Trent and Neuse Rivers. These structures were backed by a public park with a few interesting but neglected historical displays. The Union Point piers were destroyed by the twin hurricanes, but plans call for new docks to be rebuilt in the near future and for the park itself to receive a thorough renovation. Unless dredging is also undertaken, however, depths alongside may well revert to their old 4-foot levels. Downtown New Bern Begin your visit to downtown New Bern at the new headquarters of the Craven County Visitor's Information Center ( 637-9400 or 800-437-5767) and the New Bern Chamber of Commerce ( 637-3111). This combined office is located at 316 Tryon Palace Drive, within a block of the Sheraton's docks. Be sure to ask for the "New Bern Heritage Tour" brochure and map. This useful document will lead you on a walking tour of the city's historic district and its more than 140 historic sites. You can also get all sorts of other useful information and advice from the office's helpful staff. After leaving the visitor center, walk west on Tryon Palace Drive and turn right (north) on Middle Street. On the corner, you will discover one of this writer's favorite coastal North Carolina shops. Captain Ratty's Gifts (202 Middle Street, 633-2088) is owned and managed by Pete Driscoll, an ultrafriendly, died-in-the-wool boater and lover of things nautical. Among a host of offerings, Captain Ratty's features over 300 nautical-book titles and a full selection of quality boating gear, including charts, clothes, and shoes. Don't miss the new selection of imported wines and beers. Captain Ratty's is a "can't miss" spot for cruisers. Middle Street and nearby Craven Street are chock-full of interesting shops, many of the antique variety. Be sure to drop by Mitchell Hardware (215 Craven Street, 638-4261). Walking through the door at Mitchell's is like stepping back in time about 100 years. Seldom will you find a more extensive collection of interesting, hard-to-find equipment and hardware of most every description. New Bern Restaurants When it comes to fine-dining choices, downtown New Bern has an embarrassment of riches. You could spend a week or two tucked snugly in one of the Sheraton's docks and not exhaust the city's culinary possibilities. Of course, you might want to start your gastronomical review at the restaurant housed in the Sheraton complex. Normally, I am not impressed with hotel (and motel) restaurants, but this operation is an exception. An outstanding breakfast and a notable luncheon buffet are offered here. The Harvey Mansion Restaurant and Lounge (211 Tryon Palace Drive, 638-3205) is housed in an impressive, three-story historic mansion overlooking the Trent River. Once owned by one of New Bern's most successful merchants, this venerable homeplace subsequently served as a boarding school, a military academy, and an apartment house; it was also the quarters for Craven Community College. After lying vacant for years, the mansion was restored as one of New Bern's finest restaurants. New owners took over in 1993, and they have vastly improved this dining spot's offerings. The seafood and veal dishes are absolutely spectacular. And recently, the chef has begun to prepare unusual game dishes which are nothing short of extraordinary. The Harvey Mansion is open seven days a week for dinner only. While this restaurant and its white-tablecloth atmosphere will never be described as inexpensive, the Harvey Mansion receives this writer's vote for the most distinguished dining spot in New Bern. For something a little more informal, try Chelsea's Restaurant (335 Middle Street, 637-5469). The owners have recently remodeled and expanded the upstairs dining space to accommodate large parties. The Chelsea serves lunch and dinner. Both my mate and I were quite taken with the Maryland Crabcake Sandwich for our midday meal, and the Pan Barbecued Voodoo Shrimp were wonderful in the evening. Those seeking a good lunch spot need look no farther than Fred & Clair's Restaurant (247 Craven Street, 638-5426). The sandwiches here are delicious and the lunch specials tasty and unique. Cruisers with a flair for northern Italian cuisine should check out Scalzo's Restaurant (415 Broad Street, 638-9898). I have not yet had the opportunity to dine here, but reports from locals paint a picture of gastronomical pleasure. Are you looking for some scrumptious baked goods to take back to your galley? Well, search no farther than Sweet Bears Pastry Company (301 Middle Street, 635-5325). The cookies here are "to die for," and the Italian Bread-well, words just fail me. Sweet Bears is open for breakfast, and the staff will prepare box lunches. If you're into coffee house, New Bern is ready for you. Within the past several years, two such establishments have opened in the downtown district. Trent River Coffee Company (208 Craven Street, 514-2030) is housed in an old brick building with hardwood floors and a thoroughly charming atmosphere. The cappuccino and caff latte are memorable. Marina Sweets (208 Middle Street, 637-9307) serves not only good coffee, but hand-dipped ice cream as well. On a hot summer day, it's ever so wonderful! New Bern Attractions New Bern is a must stop for those interested in the history of coastal North Carolina. The city is proud of its heritage and has worked diligently to maintain and restore many artifacts of its rich past. It's only a short step from the waterfront to New Bern's premier historical attraction. Tryon Palace (600 Pollock Street, 514-4900 or 800-767-1560) and two other associated houses of later vintage are "must see" points of interest. Though the main building was destroyed by fire during the late 1700s, and though all but one of the original outlying structures fell victim to the slow march of years, the entire complex has been lovingly restored to the specifications of Governor Tryon's day. Guests of the palace may now choose between two different types of tours. The more traditional excursion runs every half-hour from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday through Saturday and from 1 p.m. to 4 p.m. Sunday; this tour lasts a little over two hours. Guests are accompanied by a costumed interpreter who provides thorough insight into the life of Tryon Palace in the days when it was the colonial capital of North Carolina. From Memorial Day to mid-August, visitors may select a more novel approach, the so-called Dramatic Tour of the palace. Those lucky enough to take this journey back to the 18th century will find themselves treated as if they were the guests of Governor Tryon and his fair lady at a ball given just before the governor left in 1771 to take up his new post in New York. Actors and actresses portray carefully researched composite characters in an informative, often humorous way most visitors find delightful. In addition to the tours, the palace complex offers daily demonstrations in colonial cooking, basket and candle making, and blacksmithing. I found the costumed craftspeople to be knowledgeable and responsive to visitors' questions. In my opinion, the palace craft activities compare favorably to similar attractions in Williamsburg, Virginia. For those who do not wish to visit the palace, a "gardens only" ticket is available at a reduced price. This ticket allows visitors to tour the extensive gardens and the two gift shops on the grounds. Tryon Palace boasts two additional points of interest. Just to the left of the palace's main gate, the 1828 Dixon-Stevenson House gladly accepts visitors. This magnificent Federal-style house features a widow's walk and an impressive collection of authentic Federal furnishings. The house was built on land auctioned off from the palace grounds following the destruction of the main building. During the Civil War, it served as a hospital for the Ninth Vermont Regiment. The nearby 1783 John Wright Stanly House features memorable Georgian architecture. Stanly was one of New Bern's staunchest patriots during the American Revolution. However, he did not live to see that war's greatest hero visit his beloved mansion. Two years after Stanly's death, in 1789, President George Washington spent several days at the late patriot's homeplace during his tour of the Southern states. Visitors will be impressed by this historic home's luxurious trappings. The New Bern Academy Museum (at the corner of Hancock and New Streets, 514-4874) gives a penetrating insight into early North Carolina education. New Bern architecture and builders and the city's Civil War history are also featured. The New Bern Historical Society, one of the most diligent organizations of its type in the state, maintains the 1790 Attmore-Oliver House (511 Broad Street, 638-8558). Tours are given from 1:00 p.m. to 4:30 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday except during January, February, and March; tours are by appointment only during these winter months. The society has worked diligently to acquire and display an impressive collections of 18th- and 19th-century furnishings and memorabilia. Cruising visitors are encouraged to patronize this most worthwhile attraction. And if all these points of interest are not enough to convince you to visit New Bern, the city has for many years maintained one of the few museums in the country that focuses on firefighting. The New Bern Fireman's Museum (410 Hancock Street, 636-4087) is dedicated to the display of early firefighting equipment, including steam pumpers and Civil War relics. This facility, expanded a few years ago through the dedicated efforts of the local fire department and volunteers, is drawing more visitors every month. It is open from 10:00 a.m. until 4:30 p.m. Monday through Saturday and from 1:00 p.m. to 5:00 p.m. Sunday. One of the community's newest attractions is the New Bern Civil War Museum (301 Metcalf Street, 633-2818). This notable museum's sole purpose is to preserve New Bern's rich Civil War history. It houses one of the finest private collections of War Between the States memorabilia and weapons in the United States. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from April 1 to September 20 and weekends only between October and March. An admission fee is charged. Obviously, there is much to see and do in New Bern. The list of attractions has grown quickly since the first edition of this guide was printed in the early 1980s. Now, New Bern can truly lay claim to having one of the most well-appointed historical districts on the North Carolina coast. Thanks to all these attractions and New Bern's impressive docking facilities, this progressive city is becoming a very popular port of call for visiting cruisers. New Bern Events As you might expect from such a vibrant community, New Bern hosts a number of special events and festivals throughout the year which will be of interest to cruising visitors. Make every effort to attend Ratty's Victorian Regatta, held the last Saturday in September. Pete Driscoll of Captain Ratty's (see above) constructed an exquisite wooden rowing skiff for the inaugural celebration of this festival in 1996. This craft is now on display in the lobby of the Sheraton Hotel. During the second weekend in April, New Bern hosts the Spring Historic Homes and Garden Tour. Many of the city's private, historic homeplaces are opened to the public. This celebration is held in conjunction with the Tryon Palace Tulip Festival, during which the gardens are open free to the public. New Bern celebrates the Chrysanthemum Festival from October 10 to October 12, when thousands of mums are in bloom. There is an associated street festival. Again, the Tryon Palace gardens are open to the public without charge. October 24 and 25 bring on ghostly visitations in downtown New Bern. The "New Bern at Night Ghost Walk" allows visitors to meet "historic ghosts" in many of the town's venerable homeplaces and cemeteries. During the Christmas season, the evening candlelight tours of Tryon Palace are a must. Call the palace (see above) for times and reservations. New Bern History Almost since its founding in 1710, New Bern has been one of North Carolina's leading coastal cities. Like Edenton and Bath, New Bern was for many years a center of the state's government and culture. New Bern served as the colonial capital, then as the state capital until 1794, when the center of government was moved to the newly created city of Raleigh. John Lawson, who also had more than a little to do with the founding of Bath, first visited the New Bern area in 1705. He quickly recognized the value of the location between the Neuse and Trent Rivers, both of which are quite navigable. He found an Indian town called Chattawka, meaning "where the fish are taken," and persuaded the Indians to sell him 1,200 acres, on which he built a cabin. In 1710, Baron Christopher de Graffenried, with the sanction of the British government, led a group of German and Swiss colonists to the region. The settlement grew quickly at first, but the Tuscarora Indian War decimated it in 1711. The colonists had settled on scattered tracts, an arrangement that made it easy for the Indians to quietly and methodically murder the inhabitants. Around 1720, the town had a second start under the leadership of Cullen Pollock, who had inherited substantial land in New Bern from his father. Pollock tirelessly promoted the community. Soon, the town was well on its way to becoming a major seaport and eventually the capital of the colony. By 1739, New Bern had apparently recovered from the effects of the Indian wars. In that year, the Reverend George Whitfield visited the town and was "grieved" to see the minister encouraging dancing and even trying to find a dance master. The colonial assembly first met in New Bern in 1737. By 1746, various state offices were located in the community. When New Bern became the state capital, the city's trade and importance increased. The town surpassed both Bath and Beaufort as a port, and many of its merchants became well-to-do exporters. In 1749, James Davis brought North Carolina's first printing press to New Bern. He set up shop and began to publish the state's first newspaper, the North Carolina Gazette. Between 1767 and 1770, at the request of Royal Governor William Tryon, a governor's "palace" was built in New Bern; in lovingly restored form, this structure continues to astonish visitors to this very day. Tryon Palace was built at a cost of 16,000, quite a sum of money in those days. The seemingly needless extravagance of this expenditure was apparently one of the leading causes of the War of Regulation, which culminated in 1771 in the Battle of Alamance, fought between the militia of Governor Tryon and a group of backwoodsmen known as the Regulators. The first provincial congress met at Tryon Palace in 1774 in defiance of the Crown. In 1774, Royal Governor Josiah Martin was forced to flee the palace at the less-than-gentle request of New Bern's hostile patriots. After the Revolutionary War, commerce continued to grow. In 1819, regular steamboat service to New Bern was established. By 1851, it was reported that more than 100,000 barrels of turpentine, 35,000 barrels of resin, 1,900 bales of cotton, and 275,000 shingles had recently passed through the port. The Civil War brought occupation by Union forces, but New Bern continued to progress even after the war. New Bern can boast several inventors among its one-time citizens. James Gill invented the revolver here in 1829, and Frederick Lente, born in 1823, devised a machine to transfuse blood. Caleb Bradham formulated the first Pepsi-Cola in New Bern during 1898 and served the drink at a downtown drugstore. The first free public school in North Carolina was established in New Bern in 1766 by Dr. Elias Haroes. For many years, New Bern was known as "the Athens of North Carolina" because of the great local interest in education. New Bern survives not only as a modern city but as a reminder of a storied past. Today, many buildings more than 200 years old are still standing.

New Bern